Jim's Place: My fireworks photo technique

My basic fireworks photo technique using my Canon Rebel T3i w/Canon 17-40 L-series lense:

I position myself upwind of the fireworks to minimize smoke messing up the shot.

ISO 100, on a tripod, using a remote switch, manual mode, bulb mode, manual focus, mirror lockup enabled, image stabilization off
Aperture - f/13 for exposures up to 8 seconds. Longer exposures such as for the grand finale will require smaller apertures such as f/22 or a neutral density filter. (Note: This aperture has worked well for my local fireworks display, where I'm able to get extremely close. For fireworks that are further away, apertures such as f/8 and f/11 might be a better choice)
No UV filter or similar filter unless you are using an ND filter
White balance: I shoot in RAW format so I don't worry about it but if you shoot in JPEG try Daylight or Tungsten or set a custom white balance.

I set the focus manually and ideally will do that before it gets dark - usually using the launching pad where the fireworks are set up as a focal point. I also look for a fallback focal point that I can use during the show (i.e. one you still see after it gets dark) - for example, a street light that is about the same distance away as the fireworks. That way, if I have to move or change my zoom during the fireworks, I can quickly do it.

After the first shot, I quickly check my LCD to confirm that the focus is correct. I make sure to already have my reading glasses on!

As soon as you hear a firework launched press the remote switch to start the exposure. If you're using mirror lockup it'll take 2 presses. Close the shutter after the explosion ends, or leave open for up to about 8 seconds to catch multiple bursts. If the fireworks are especially bright, you'll want to close the shutter a little earlier than usual. I like to close the shutter earlier on some shots so that I catch the explosion while it's still in progress and then on others I'll leave the shutter open longer to capture the light trails.

After your first couple of shots, check to verify correct focus/exposure and see if you need to reframe the shot. If you do, be careful not to bump the focus. If you decide to zoom in or out, you'll need to reset the focus, which might be a challenge now that it's dark. If the shot is too bright, lower the aperture (increase the f stop), too dark, raise the aperture (lower f stop). Note: changing f stop may require re-focusing.

For the grand finale: Ideally, you would want to use a neutral density filter so that you could leave the shutter open for 10-20 seconds without the picture being blown out - maybe a good option if you have an extra camera. But what I usually do is near the end of the show, I just spin up the aperture to f/18 or f/22 and leave the shutter open for about 10 seconds.

My basic fireworks photo technique using my Canon Rebel T3i w/Canon 17-40 L-series lense:

I position myself upwind of the fireworks to minimize smoke messing up the shot.

ISO 100, on a tripod, using a remote switch, manual mode, bulb mode, manual focus, mirror lockup enabled, image stabilization off
Aperture - f/13 for exposures up to 8 seconds. Longer exposures such as for the grand finale will require smaller apertures such as f/22 or a neutral density filter. (Note: This aperture has worked well for my local fireworks display, where I'm able to get extremely close. For fireworks that are further away, apertures such as f/8 and f/11 might be a better choice)
No UV filter or similar filter unless you are using an ND filter
White balance: I shoot in RAW format so I don't worry about it but if you shoot in JPEG try Daylight or Tungsten or set a custom white balance.

I set the focus manually and ideally will do that before it gets dark - usually using the launching pad where the fireworks are set up as a focal point. I also look for a fallback focal point that I can use during the show (i.e. one you still see after it gets dark) - for example, a street light that is about the same distance away as the fireworks. That way, if I have to move or change my zoom during the fireworks, I can quickly do it.

After the first shot, I quickly check my LCD to confirm that the focus is correct. I make sure to already have my reading glasses on!

As soon as you hear a firework launched press the remote switch to start the exposure. If you're using mirror lockup it'll take 2 presses. Close the shutter after the explosion ends, or leave open for up to about 8 seconds to catch multiple bursts. If the fireworks are especially bright, you'll want to close the shutter a little earlier than usual. I like to close the shutter earlier on some shots so that I catch the explosion while it's still in progress and then on others I'll leave the shutter open longer to capture the light trails.

After your first couple of shots, check to verify correct focus/exposure and see if you need to reframe the shot. If you do, be careful not to bump the focus. If you decide to zoom in or out, you'll need to reset the focus, which might be a challenge now that it's dark. If the shot is too bright, lower the aperture (increase the f stop), too dark, raise the aperture (lower f stop). Note: changing f stop may require re-focusing.

For the grand finale: Ideally, you would want to use a neutral density filter so that you could leave the shutter open for 10-20 seconds without the picture being blown out - maybe a good option if you have an extra camera. But what I usually do is near the end of the show, I just spin up the aperture to f/18 or f/22 and leave the shutter open for about 10 seconds.

Jim's Place